The Definitive Guide to Cape Cod National Seashore
Writing and photography by Jennifer Kain DeFoe
When it comes to the National Park Service, Cape Cod National Seashore sort of flies under the radar. It doesn’t receive the global attention that places like Grand Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park or Yellowstone get but, with nearly 44,000 acres of pristine beaches, trails, kettle ponds and scenic vistas, it does draw nearly as many visitors, well over four million per year.
The best way to explore Cape Cod National Seashore, at least in our humble opinion (we do, after all, live here) is by getting off the beaten track by visiting the major beaches and trails at off hours, or checking out places that aren’t well known.
Marconi Beach: Marconi Beach Road, Wellfleet
When you’re on Cape Cod, especially in the summer months, you’re probably going to want to spend at least one day at the beach. There is no insider way to avoid people during peak tanning hours, but Cape Cod National Seashore’s Marconi Beach, less than four miles from our Cape Cod hotel, has one of the largest parking lots of any beach within “the Seashore” as it’s known locally, so there is little risk of it filling up even on a gorgeous day. Marconi Beach also happens to be beautiful. There is a fee to park here, currently $25. The beach is lifeguard protected and there are restrooms.
Marconi Site & Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail, 195 Marconi Beach Road, Wellfleet
Limited parking keeps this site from feeling crowded even on the nicest summer day, but we still prefer it in the late afternoon or early evening when the sun is softer and the shadows longer.
From the parking area, which is free, Marconi Site and a viewing platform are up the hill to the right as you face the ocean. The trailhead for the Atlantic White Cedar Swamp is on the left, behind the restrooms.
There isn’t much left to Marconi Site at this point. Erosion has wiped away all but the last vestiges of Guillermo Marconi’s ground-breaking wireless communication system. Look carefully and you’ll find a few cement foundations from the mammoth poles that once graced the site. You’ll also find an overlook with stellar views.
For even better views, head up to the elevated platform. This is one of few sites that allow you to see both the northern and southern coasts of the Cape from one location.
At just over a mile long and with one of the most unique landscapes on the East Coast, checking out the Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail is a no-brainer. A packed sand trail leads down to a boardwalk which winds through the eerie swamp. One could easily expect to find one of Maurice Sendak’s “wild things” within the swamp.
Highland Light: 27 Highland Light Road, North Truro
What’s a trip to Cape Cod without seeing a lighthouse? If you love lighthouses, you’re in luck when you stay at our hotel in Wellfleet. Highland Light, the only Cape Cod lighthouse open for daily tours, is in Truro, the next town over. It is also one of few that are still used for navigational purposes.
Eight bucks buys you a very short, very informative lecture from a local guide who is typically high on the local-color scale. Part of the lecture includes info about the critical role Ivory Soap played in the preservation of this beloved landmark.
Erosion made the lighthouse’s original site precarious. When it was moved inland a few hundred feet, there was a concerning amount of wobble when the pros tried to move it along steel beams. Bars of Ivory Soap were brought in to smooth the way. Problem solved.
After the lecture, visitors are invited to climb up into the tower in small groups. It’s a short climb and those who are physically able should definitely go for it. In addition to incredible views of the ocean, you’ll also see Highland Links, the oldest golf course in the U.S. Not to be ignored are a massive white spherical structure, which is a radar device used by the Federal Aviation Administration, and a slightly less noticeable conical structure, the Jenny Lind Tower. This is named for a 19th-century opera singer. Rumors abound as to its purpose. One thing we do know is that it’s a striking presence among the dune-scape of North Truro.
Snail Road Trail: Route 6 at Snail Road, Provincetown
If you have very strong legs and a desire to see the kind of Cape Cod Thoreau wrote about, check out the Snail Road Trail, a.k.a. the Dune Shacks Trail.
Park along the right side of Route 6 just before traffic light at Snail Road and follow the trail. This hike is only for those who have the stamina to tackle mountainous sand dunes and very soft sand trails. Your reward for all of that exertion is an unspoiled vista, views of Provincetown’s famed dune shacks and a pristine, deserted beach.
Hatches Harbor Trail, Province Lands Road, Provincetown
This trail isn’t in any of the Seashore’s brochures which means it is deliciously underused. Look for a small sand parking lot on the left about 1.5 miles past the parking area for Herring Cove Beach, park and hit the trail.
Within a couple of hundred yards, you’ll begin to appreciate the beauty. Before you is an old dike that bisects a saltmarsh. Behind you is Pilgrim Monument. Further out are ponds, saltwater inlets and distant views of Race Point Lighthouse. If you’re up for a long walk, you can get up close and personal with the lighthouse and/or hit the beach.
Walk as long – or as little – as you’d like, but always be mindful of the tide. High tide makes for a damp crossing on the way back (up to your knees, no swimming needed).
The Province Lands
All of the land, many, many acres, at the tip of Cape Cod are referred to as the Province Lands. Within the area are Province Lands Visitor Center, Old Harbor Life-Saving Station, Race Point Beach and Herring Cove Beach.
Province Lands Visitor Center has free parking and restrooms. What more could you ask for? How about a second-story observation deck with unsurpassed views of the ocean and surrounding dune-scape? As you walk up to the visitor center, look for the exterior staircase on the right of the building. There is no fee. Enjoy.
Both Race Point Beach and Herring Cove Beach charge a daily fee for parking. Each has lifeguard-protected beaches, restrooms and a bathhouse. Herring Cove is located on the bay side of the Cape, Race Point on the ocean side. Just a couple of miles separate them, yet when it comes to wave action, they are a world apart. Herring Cove has gentle surf and fairly warm water. Race Point has big waves and brisk water.
Within the parking lot of Race Point Beach is the Old Harbor Life-Saving Station which is just what it sounds like, a hulking wooden structure that was manned by crews who would brave storms and big surf to save lives. It is now a museum, open with limited hours. What is unlimited are the photo ops. Amazing!
There is no need to worry should a fox meander in your direction while at Race Point. A family of them lives under a shack near the ranger station which is housed in an old Coast Guard station. The foxes are looking for food. Enjoy the encounter, but please don’t feed them!
Visit the Cape Cod National Seashore website for more details on these and many other incredible outdoor experiences.